The best burger? Everyone has thoughts. Thick, thin, rare, well-done, lots of toppings, barely any. What can’t be argued? That said, the smash burger is here to stay. As dangerously close (in the best way) to a salty meat pudding as any sandwich ought to be, a smash burger owes its ultra-beefy flavour to ground meat cooked over high heat in its own fat. Inspired by the Four Guys Burger at Gold Standard in Toronto and the Animal Style burger at California’s In-N-Out Burger, this three-patty, two-cheese babe is as local as your own kitchen. Marmite, an MSG-laden (again, in the best way!) yeast extract, is available at most large grocers. See TIP below for customizing your burgers. Serves 2
Burger Sauce
3 tbsp (45 mL) mayonnaise
1 tbsp (15 mL) ketchup
1 tbsp (15 mL) sweet pickle relish
1/2 tsp (2 mL) Marmite Pinch cayenne
2 tbsp (30 mL) neutral-flavoured oil
2 medium-size onions, halved and thinly sliced
Salt
12 oz (340 g) medium ground beef
Freshly ground black pepper
2 very soft, small potato or brioche burger buns
1 cup (250 mL) loosely packed shredded iceberg lettuce
Yellow mustard, about 3 tbsp (45 mL), divided
4 thin processed cheese slices
1 medium-size dill pickle, preferably Vlasic, sliced into
1/4‑inch (5-mm) thick coins
2 slices cooked bacon, halved lengthwise (option
Directions
For the Burger Sauce, place all ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine—the Marmite will take some coaxing to dissolve. Cover and refrigerate for up to a week.
To caramelize the onions, add oil to a 10- or 12-inch (25- or 30-cm) cast-iron skillet set over medium heat. Once shimmering, add onions and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Spread out into an even layer and cook until light golden, about 3 minutes. Stir and repeat process twice more. Reduce heat to low and continue to cook, stirring from time to time, 30 to 35 minutes longer or until deeply caramelized.
Meanwhile, divide cold ground beef into six equal portions. Working on a parchment-lined baking sheet, pat each out into a large flat patty 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Scrape onions out into a heatproof bowl; set aside. Return pan to heat, place buns cut side down in pan and toast until golden at edges, 30 seconds or so.
Divide Burger Sauce between top and bottom buns. Divide lettuce between bottoms.
Clean pan; set over high heat. Turn kitchen fan to high. Once pan is smoking, add 3 patties. Press each lightly with a large offset spatula to make contact with pan. Cook 1 minute.
Meanwhile, squirt a heaping teaspoon of mustard onto uncooked side of each patty and spread to edges. Flip and immediately top two patties with a slice of cheese and one quarter of the onions. Cook 45 seconds total then stack the patties with the undressed one on top.
Set onto bottom bun, top stack with half the pickle slices, half the bacon, if using, and the top bun.
For the Burger Sauce, place all ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine—the Marmite will take some coaxing to dissolve. Cover and refrigerate for up to a week.
To caramelize the onions, add oil to a 10- or 12-inch (25- or 30-cm) cast-iron skillet set over medium heat. Once shimmering, add onions and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Spread out into an even layer and cook until light golden, about 3 minutes. Stir and repeat process twice more. Reduce heat to low and continue to cook, stirring from time to time, 30 to 35 minutes longer or until deeply caramelized.
Meanwhile, divide cold ground beef into six equal portions. Working on a parchment-lined baking sheet, pat each out into a large flat patty 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Scrape onions out into a heatproof bowl; set aside. Return pan to heat, place buns cut side down in pan and toast until golden at edges, 30 seconds or so.
Divide Burger Sauce between top and bottom buns. Divide lettuce between bottoms.
Clean pan; set over high heat. Turn kitchen fan to high. Once pan is smoking, add 3 patties. Press each lightly with a large offset spatula to make contact with pan. Cook 1 minute.
Meanwhile, squirt a heaping teaspoon of mustard onto uncooked side of each patty and spread to edges. Flip and immediately top two patties with a slice of cheese and one quarter of the onions. Cook 45 seconds total then stack the patties with the undressed one on top.
Set onto bottom bun, top stack with half the pickle slices, half the bacon, if using, and the top bun.
Serve right away and repeat process to make a second burger. Serves 2
TIP You can make and stack as many patties as you like, even change the ratio of meat to cheese (for instance, a double burger with 2 cheese slices) or leave the cheese out altogether. Each patty requires 2 oz (55 g) ground beef; if you don’t have a scale, visit a meat counter where you can ask for a very specific weight of beef, then divide by eye at home.
TIP You can make and stack as many patties as you like, even change the ratio of meat to cheese (for instance, a double burger with 2 cheese slices) or leave the cheese out altogether. Each patty requires 2 oz (55 g) ground beef; if you don’t have a scale, visit a meat counter where you can ask for a very specific weight of beef, then divide by eye at home.
